Monday, June 11, 2007

Port Vila - Vanuatu


After three days cruising on perfectly calm idyllic seas, the Pacific Sun docked in
Port Vila on the island of Vanuatu.
It reminded me very much of Bali.
The town was quite small with lots of shops selling local wares. The main difference was that there was no pressure to buy and no bargaining.
The people are very happy and the local dancers were very obliging.
I couldn't resist a photo with the kids and though they were really dark skinned until I got on the ship and realised my hands and the sides of my trousers were covered in coal dust!

The Pacific Sun shines on Sydney Harbour


It was sunset as P&Os Pacific Sun steamed out of Darling Harbour - and the timing was perfect.
What a thrill it was to see the Opera House on one side and Lunar Park on the other and see the Sydney Tower poking up from the city's skyline.
Sydney has certainly changed since we lived there back in the 70s but the memories of all the trips we took to Manly on the ferry soon came tumbling back.
As we went under the bridge I think all 1800 passengers were on deck to savour the moment but it was amazing how quickly they disappeared below.
Most of them missed the setting sun - it was magic!
I remained on deck until the ship had sailed out of the Heads and set its course to the north east and the islands of the South Pacific.

The coat-hanger brigade


Today is officially the Queen's birthday in Australia - but that's not the reason these folk are waving.
They are standing on top of the Sydney Harbour Bridge as the Pacific Sun sails under (with only inches to spare between the top of the funnel and the bottom of the bridge).
It's two week since I joined the 'Sun' on a Pacific Island cruise.
Having come back with the flu, I have only just got around to uploading a few photos.

Wednesday, May 16, 2007

My place


This is the house I am buying in Tasmania.
If all goes well I will be moving in on 5th July.
Photo courtesy of Towns Shearing Real Estate, Launceston, the agents who I had the pleasure of dealing with.

End of a journey...


...and the beginning of a new adventure.
I loved the image below but realised when I had posted it that it was a bit blurred.
This photo is better and I now have it as my screen saver.
I'm not the best at photography and must admit I took this on a normal daylight setting though it was still quite dark.

Tuesday, May 15, 2007

The Spirit retuns


I didn’t know what time it was. I woke suddenly aware it was a noise which had startled me.
And there is was again. I knew at once that it was a ship’s siren.
I had heard that the Spirit of Tasmania sailed in every morning at 7.00 am and I knew from the sound that she was approaching the mouth of the Mersey River, returning to Devonport after her night crossing from Melbourne.
The room was black. The curtains had those heavy plastic-coated linings which didn’t allow a glimmer of light even though the car park outside was still brightly lit.
I found the switch and reached for my clothes. It was 6.45.
The siren sounded again - and it was nearer.
I knew that I didn’t have time to dress properly if I wanted to see it.
I pulled on my trousers, tucked my nightie into them, and pulled my coat on, zipping it high under my chin. It could be quite cold outside at this time of the morning. Joggers on – no time to lace them.
I grabbed the camera and room key and within seconds was down the corridor and out of the front door.
The B&B on Victoria Avenue was directly across the road from the River and at it faced east I could see the sky changing to accommodate the sun as it was about to rise at the point where Bass Strait ends and Tasmania begins.
I crossed the road quickly to the grassy bank and watched in awe as the modern ferry approached.
She sounded her siren again, for me I thought, as I was the only person waiting to welcome her.
She approached surprisingly fast sliding by smoothly and silently, creating barely a ripple on the rose-coloured sea – even the wild waters of Bass Strait were still asleep.
Would she reach her wharf only half a mile up river before the sun came up, I wondered?
I watched her pass and watched the sky change from red to gold and a dozen shades between and marvelled at the kaleidoscope of colours reflected in the river.
What a beautiful morning it was, and oh, what a beautiful sight.
Photo: Mouth of the Mersey, Devonport, Tasmania

On the ridge at Grindelwald


I went back to Tasmania last week with one purpose in mind - to buy a house.
And I fell in love with this one.
It overlooks the Tamar River with 180 degree views ... and it feels right for me.

Penny Royal in Launceston


You could easily imagine you were beside the Avon at Stratford in England - but you are not.
This group of buildings is part of a complex which includes a hotel and shops and it's in the centre of Tasmania's Launceston and two minutes walk from the Cataract Gorge.
Launceston is a city where everything is within walking distance.
And it is full of surprises.

Westbury Chruch


Maybe it's some of Tasmania's buildings, like this church in the small town of Westbury near Launceston, which remind me of England and make me feel I belong in this part of the world.
Or is it that in Tasmania you can witness the changing colours of the four seasons? That is something I have missed in the part of Western Australia where I have lived for 27 years.
They also tell me it rains in Tassie - so I guess I have been lucky.
This is my second visit and once again I am blessed with blue skies.

The Spirit of Tasmania


The Spirit of Tasmania is of course the name of the ferry service which sails daily from Melbourne to Devonport on the island's north coast.
The voyage across Bass Strait takes about 10 hours.
I heard one of the locals describe the ferry as 'our highway to the mainland'.
But for me there is another spirit of Tasmania and I'm sure I am not the only person who has experienced it.
It seems that almost everyone who travels to the Apple Isle is attracted to it in a way they cannot explain.
It's hard to know if it's the friendliness, the clean green philosophy, the easy going way of life, the homeliness - but it is a feeling which grabbed me as soon as I stepped off the plane.
While driving around the state (of only 400,000 people) I kept hearing myself say, "I love it here".

Grindelwald - a taste of Switzerland in Tasmania


You could be forgiven for thinking this picture was taken in Europe.
It wasn't.
The photo is the resort hotel complex in the village of Grindelwald only 10 minutes drive from Launceston's CBD.
Grindelwald was the brainchild of Roelf Voss who, after visiting Switzerland, was inspired to create a Swiss-style village in the heart of the beautiful Tamar Valley.
The village began in 1980 with a 15 acre lake and a tiny lakeside chapel.
Today the houses, mostly on 2 - 5 acre blocks, sprawl over 1000 acres.
They are all unique in design but are all constructed in the typical Swiss style with high pitched roofs and wide eaves.
I stayed at Grindelwald on my first visit to Launceston only a few weeks ago.
It's located high up on the valley side and overlooks Brady's lookout (see below)
- and it's the place which drew me back.
With a climate comparable to northern France, and the hillsides decked with vineyards, the Tamar Valley is considered one of Australia's most desirable locations.

Thursday, April 26, 2007

Brady's Lookout near Launceston, Tasmania


As I stepped out of the car at the top of the hill, it was like waking to a very pleasant dream. I looked at the lines on the road – the spaces for other cars – but there were none.
When I looked up, what confronted me was the view. It seemed to go on forever and I guess it stretched 30 or 40 km almost to Bass Strait in the north, and to the green but rugged mountains which encircled the valley in every other direction.
But the most striking feature was the Tamar River winding its way graciously to the sea.
The sky could not have been bluer, the trees greener. And the water was a shade of blue jade flecked with slivers of silver.
There was not a house in sight - or a person – or even a bird for that matter.
But despite the solitude I felt engulfed in an aura of belonging – like a child who’d been away from home for a long, long time and just returned.
It was a warm comfortable and satisfying feeling and I had no desire to go away and leave it.
After a while of musing, two other people entered my dream.
I hadn’t heard their car and didn’t notice them until they ambled across to the place where I had been standing.
I wondered if they were experiencing the same feeling which I had.
They looked content. They were not young.
He was Australian and she was Indian with long black hair falling down her back.
They walked hand in hand and said nothing.
They smiled at me and I smiled back.
I moved on and stopped at a plaque at the side of the track which said that this place was Brady’s Lookout.
Mathew Brady had been sentenced to transportation from England in 1820 for stealing food. Having attempted to abscond and committed several crimes Brady soon became known as a notorious bandit and he and his gang sought refuge in the rocky outcrops on the side of the valley overlooking the Tamar River.
Brady’s hope was to pirate a ship on the River and escape by sea. But he never made it and was eventually captured, tried and hanged in Hobart in 1826.

I will remember that lookout – Brady’s lookout – not for the convicted man, but for the views, the solitude, the peace and a feeling of contentment which is hard to explain.
It was like being touched by fragments of memory from childhood.
Like the sound of a robin pecking on the corner of a frosted window frame.
Like the crunch of freshly fallen snow underfoot.
Like the changing faces dancing in the flames of a fire.
Like the taste of honey on crumpets on a cold winter’s night.
The sorts of memories you never forget.
Brady’s Lookout was like that. And the best thing about it was that it wasn’t a dream.
It was real - and it will still be there when I go back.

Saturday, March 24, 2007

The Tamar Valley - Here I come!


Last week I flew to Tasmania for a week's holiday.
This week I took the first steps to sell my house in WA.
In July, if all goes well, I will move to the Tamar Valley.
I had never been there before last week, I don't know anyone there, but I fell in love with the region.
There is nothing to hold me in Western Australia.
So I'm off!!

Photo: Taken on Brady's lookout about 15 km north of Launceston looking north over the beautiful Tamar Valley. (M Muir 03/07)

Monday, March 05, 2007

Better than a raindance!


Well, I wouldn't have believed it.
Only a few hours after posting the last blog entry about how dry everything was, the storm clouds rolled in and it rained!
It didn't last long but it did freshen the air for a short time.
Now it's back to 100 degrees - 39C forcast for today!
No wonder I am planning a trip to Tasmania.
Oh, to live somewhere without the extremes of climate.
Photo: M Muir

Monday, February 26, 2007

No, I've not dropped off the perch!


Having been a regular blogger, I have to admit I fell in a hole recently.
Here are my excuses:
The heat! The heat! The heat!
Whether (sorry about the pun) it's just me being unable to contend with the 40C+ (105F+) temperatures, or global warming is making the Australian summer hotter and longer, I'm not sure.
I do know however that, despite having air-conditioning in the house, my creative brain closes down in the hottest months.
I stopped writing the work-in-progress a month ago (it needed only one chapter remaining to finish it), and I haven't yet been able to pick up the threads.

I look out of the window (you don't wander in the garden when the full-sun temperature is around 50C (120F)) and see almost everything is dying.
Bush fires burn in various places across the hills which means you don't feel like going away and leaving the property unattended - just in case!
The animals look lean through lack of nourishing feed so I have been cutting branches of tagasaste (lucerne tree) and acacia.

I know the heat gets to me each summer but this year had been the worst - maybe I'm getting old!
But I don't particularly want to go through another season like it.
The answer I have come up with - move to Tasmania.
That is one reason I have not been writing Iincluding the blog). I've spent literally hours and hours on the Internet checking out real estate.
What a great tool it is to go virtual travelling and house hunting.

Though I am frustrated that I have achieved nothing this month, I did manage two things.
I completed the edits for my next novel, The Black Thread - due in August.
I also embarked on a distance learning course with the University of Exeter - Lost sailing ships of 1780 to 1880 - but more on that later.
I also attended a few meetings including one with Rostrum - public speaking group.

But for now, I will wish for cooler weather in March when a trip to Tassie is on the cards! At least I can go on a short sea voyage across Bass Strait albeit on a modern ferry!
Photo: Bushfire smoke blowing over the paddock - W. Australia, Feb 2007

Thursday, February 01, 2007

Water, Water everywhere but not a lot to drink!


Mundaring Weir at CY O'Connor Lake/Helena Resevoir supplies water by pipeline to Kalgoolie, 550 kilometers from Perth.

Photo: M Muir

Friday, January 19, 2007

Comet watching - again!


I've been gazing skywards for the past three nights and couldn't resist taking more photos of McNaught's comet.
It's a once in a generation experience and in the next day or two it will disappear from view.
The photo is a poor reproduction, but the sight through my binoculars was supurb.
Wow!!

Wednesday, January 17, 2007

Life is a shipwreck - Voltaire


I usually allude to the trials and tribulations of life as a topsy-turvy roller coaster ride.
Yesterday, I read these words from Voltaire:

“Life is a shipwreck, but we must not forget to sing in the lifeboats”

Good advice, I believe.

Photo: M Muir - Drake Passage off Tierra del Fuego, S. America

'Music is silence asleep'

I suppose I'm a bit like Horatio Hornblower - no I am not tone deaf, but I don't like listening to music.
And, even though I live alone and can go days without speaking to anyone, I hate background sounds like a TV or radio.
Most people will probably regard this as odd.
Yet I live in a house with a metal frame and metal roof which creaks, cracks and bangs regularly as the metal expands and contracts - and I don't notice it.
I guess the old seafarers didn't hear the creaks and growns of a timber ship.
For me the words, 'Music is silence asleep', qualify my feelings.

McNaught's Comet - with a tail 3 million km long!


I am amazed that the McNaught Comet is visible to the naked eye here in Bakers Hill, Western Australia.
It is not much more than a pinprick in the dying evening light, but I can see its shape and actually see it moving, albeit very, very slowly as it drops towards the horizon.
What amazes me are the statistics I have read.
Just fancy, I am standing in the garden with my camera, looking up at the comet's steamy tail which could measure up to 3,000,000 kilometres in length.
I discover that the icy core is only 300 meters across, yet the fuzzy coma surrounding the ice core (which measures only 300 meters), is around 100,000 kilometers across.
Those figures are mind-boggling.
I don't know why but I expected the comet to be orange but it was pure white, its brilliant light reflected from the sun.
Photo : M Muir

Tuesday, January 09, 2007

South African Boer Goats for sale


The goats haven't had much attention lately on the blog or on the farm.
With the driest year on record in 2006 and little feed on the ground and the dam almost dried out, the goats have had theri noses pushed out of joint.
In fact I have recently sold several of my good does.
And I have just advertised Akhenaten (318) my current three year old buck.
He's a nice fellow, well marked and very quiet but I don't want to use him again this coming season, so he must go.
Because my goats are all social animals I hate to part with them, but, like real children, the kids have a habit of growing up!
Photo: A great profile - Akhenaten (OUX318)

Thursday, January 04, 2007

Lost World of Sailing Ships 1780-1880


The above title is the subject of a Distance Learning (Internet) course offered by Exeter University in England.
It provides and insight into the maritime economy of the South West of England in the nineteenth century and looks at how the world of sail changed during that time.
Subjects included in the syllabus include:

Vessels: their categories and cargoes.
Mariners: their education and careers.
Ports: their rise and fall.
Shipbuilding and shipwrights:
Sailmakers, blockmakers, ropemakers: the role of ancillary trades.
Privateers: the last days of privateering.
Smugglers: the organisation of smuggling and its eventual control.

The one sememster (non-accredited) course commences in February and has no set assignments. For further info from the university's Distance Learning Department go to: www.education.ex.ac.uk/dll/
I'm pleased to say I am enrolled in this course.

Photo: Europa - Victory Tours out of Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego offering a 53 day sail in 2008 - Cape Horn to the Cape of Good Hope via Antartica.

All I need is about 8000 euros and a body 25 years younger - You can't stop dreaming, can you!

Wednesday, January 03, 2007

A doll in History - article in Doll Magazine


This very nice feature article was written by Susan Brewer and appears in the Dec/Jan issue of Doll Magazine which is out now in the UK and USA.
I am delighted to have already received some feedback from a reader in the US.
The article is about my latest book, The Twisting Vine, and about my association with dolls and mohair - and goats.
If you would like to receive a readable copy by email you can write to me via the CONTACT ME link on my website - just click on the website link at the top of the blog.
The Twisting Vine is available from www.Amazon.co.uk and leading UK bookshops.
It will hopefully be listed as available on the Amazon US site shortly.

The Twisting Vine by Margaret Muir - Review


Since publication of this review I have received some comments from Doll Magazine readers in the USA as Amazon US lists The Twisting Vine but says it is not available.
I have written to them to ask why this is so as the book is available.
You can currently order the hardcopy from www.Amazon.uk.co or the other major UK booksellers.
A second edition (large print) is due out in May 2007 from Ulverscroft in England.
I'm sorry the print is too small to read on this picture, however if you want a copy you can contact me directly through the CONTACT ME page on my website and I will forward a copy via email.

Tuesday, January 02, 2007

Sailing into 2007


My New Year resolutions for 2007 include writing two books and I'm pleased to say the first is underway.
It's a sea story (age-of-sail era), and in the past couple of weeks I've managed 25,000 words on paper - very rough draft, however!
As part of my background research, I've just finished reading, A Mariner of England.
It's a warts-and-all story (first published in 1908) written by William Richardson, a seaman who served on both merchant and naval ships around the time of the Battle of Trafalgar.
Richardson saw active service - mainly as warrant officer/Gunner (23 years)- in the Channel, West Indies, Calcutta, Flushing and off Portugal.
The detailed picture he paints so eloquently provides an amazing insight into life on the sea 200 years ago.
Reading between the lines it's not hard to spot the differences between the two services, eg: pay scales and punishments.
Interestingly, both merchantmen and naval ratings were regularly duped over money - payment of wages or prize money.
The degree of severe and regular punishments on naval vessels was directly related to the calibre of the Captain (mainly) and officers. For example on one ship Richardson says that two seamen would not dare be seen even talking together on deck - on another the first lieutenant gave him a roll of cloth to make himself some clothes.
One thing that amazed me was the number of ships which sailed together in convoys - naval vessels escorting merchantmen - sometimes there were several hundred sail (400 on one voyage) and it's not surprising that occasionally they got themselves tanlged up together.
William Richardon's autobiographical story is well told and very readable.
It certainly transported me back to the late 1700s and early 1800s and put me in the mood for writing in that era.
If you are interested in the sea or history, or just want an interesting read, I would thoroughly recommend it.
Available on Amazon

Thursday, December 21, 2006

Reflections on Yule - a Pam Ayres lookalike

It’s here again, it’s Christmas time, that glorious event,
That brings together families and relatives and friends.
A time of cheer, of carols, and presents on the hearth.
But most of all the memories that Christmas Day imparts.

And as I sit surrounded by the children, great and small,
The mind escapes to wander through my Christmas memory haul:
To six foot drifts of icy snow on Hallowed Christmas Day,
The relatives all stranded over 60 miles away.

And Mother’s still preparing food, enough to feed an army.
Dad pours himself another beer and says he thinks she’s barmy.
And the little bells that tinkle hanging on the Christmas tree
Remind me of the Christmas that we spent in Sydney.

Mother slaving in the kitchen with a chicken not long dead.
As the temperature is rising Dad lies sweating on the bed.
But the grid, it cannot take it as the mercury explodes,
So it has to shut the power or the station will implode.

And Mum in desperation, screams, “Who turned the power off?”
“Oh God, what next!” said father, as he gets up in a huff.
“Don’t fret yourself,” said Uncle Frank. “Just leave it up to me,
I’ll fire up the Metters and we’ll have the chook for tea.”

“No, put it on the driveway,” said Dad between his beers
“And let it simmer slowly then we’ll have it for New Year’s.”
And the broken glass it tinkled, like the little Christmas bell
As the chook became a missile! “And you lot can go to hell!”
*
Oh Tannenbaum, Oh Christmas tree pray tell me your lament
As you stand there somewhat naked in your bucket of cement.
You’re leaning on an angle like a ship that’s going down,
With your arms held up for mercy before you finally drown.

But what of Yule-tide blessings, and the yule log on the rug,
As reflection on the Yule-time give my lonely heart a tug.
“You’ll do this and you’ll do that and you’ll not answer back
You’ll not kick your cousin Rachel or I’ll promise you a wack.
You’ll say thank you for your presents. You’ll be nice to Uncle Matt.”
I think someone should take You’ll-tide and feed it to the cat!
*
Hey Christmas! Merry Christmas! Merry? – That’s not what I would say.
I’d say they’re all as drunk as skunks or heading on that way.
And forget the Christmas carols, Cousin Carol’s full of song
And she’ll pass out on the sofa before too very long.
And Mother’s trying very hard to dignify the scene
Announcing that we all sit down for the message from the Queen.
*
I know for me, the memories of Christmas linger on,
As I hear my warbled hummings of that famous Christmas song.
But Hark - not Herald Angels, that’s young Jason, I can hear,
And the piercing sound of screaming drifting loud upon the air.
And his mother’s faintly sobbing, says the trampoline was torn
And the siren bells are wailing on that joyful Christmas morn.
*
So to all of you at Christmas, I wish you Yule-tide cheer
As I read my Mr. Dickens there’s one true voice I hear
That dear old man, that Mr Scrooge, astute – no not a mug
He, only he, had got it right, Christmas is - Humbug!

Merry Christmas!

Poem by M Muir (2000)

Saturday, December 16, 2006

124 degrees F (54 C) in the sun


I imagine the response I will get to this post.
No on eis going to believe it - but it's true.
As it was jolly hot today and I stayed inside most of the day with the aircon on.
At 4.45 pm I ventured out to check the goat's water troughs and couldn't believe how hot it was.
It was like walking into the proverbial oven (cliche - but true).
I couldn't believe th heat so went inside and got my thermometer - old but reliable, and when I walked back into the sun the mercury just started to rise.
I know that temperatures which are officially recorded are shade temperatures, whereas I was in the garden in the sun, but it was late afternoon and the sky was hazy.
What I recorded (and photographed) was - one hundred and twenty four degrees farenheit or 54 centigrade!
Then I let the thermometer cool off and took the shade temperature under the Verhandah - a relatively cool 45 C or 112F.
I just hope this is not a sample of the summer ahead!
Phew!!
Photo: M Muir - Location 75 km inland from Perth, Western Australia.

Sunday, December 10, 2006

Pioneer in marine photography - Douglas P. Wilson


Douglas P Wilson (1902- 1991), a marine biologist, was internationally acclaimed for his photographic studies in the field of natural history.
He was the first to photograph living plankton under the microscope.
Wilson’s work of the 1920s and 30s is highly regarded for its artistic excellence and his photographs still appears in books and journals around the world today.
Amongst the many specimens he captured on film is Noctiluca, a luminous dinoflagellate.
Wilson writes: When it is present in dense forms…when agitated by the dip of an oar or the breaking of a wave, the sea becomes brilliantly luminescent, the water glowing with light.
The phenomenon of marine luminescence is something which intrigued men for countless generations (including Robert Fitzroy, Captain of HMS Beagle).
Douglas Wilson’s interest in the photography began as a three year old when he posed for a family photo - his head fixed in a clamp so he couldn’t move during the extended exposure time required in those days.
At age 11 he bought his first cardboard box camera for a penny, took it home and successful developed his first photograph.
Wilson’s memoir, A Sea Life in Focus, edited by his daughter, biographer, Hester Davenport, is illustrated with original photographs.
It records not only of the marine specimens he photographed, but the methods he used and the specialized equipment he constructed in order to do so.
For his pioneering work in marine photography, Dr Wilson received many awards including the prestigious award of Honorary Fellowship of the Royal Photographic Society (1987).
Image: Larva of Long-armed Starfish metamorphosing by D P Wilson.

Monday, December 04, 2006

Happy 96th Birthday, Mum


Today, in England, my mother celebrates her 96th birthday.
She was born, Ethel May Ettershank, on 3rd Dec 1910.
Mum married Frank Leak (died 1972) and has been able to boast three children, 7 grandsons, and 4 greatgrandsons and at last, and most recently, one great grandaughter.
Mum presently lives in a Methodist local Preachers' residential house in Woodhall Spa.
She tells me that she will be having a cake to celebrate her birthday but assures me it won't have 96 candles on it.
I wish I could be there to help her celebrate.
Happy Birthday, Mum xxx
Photo: Ethel Leak aged 16 years

Saturday, December 02, 2006

World AIDS Day - a poem

AIDS (Africa)

moist lips kiss death
in momentary bliss
black silk on blackness slides
earth’s crimson blood pulsates
through vented crust
as warm life pumps
explosive virulence
in love’s disguise

pale jacarandas
scatter in the storm
rudderless coracles
tossed on the turbid flow
ebony tears engorge
dark drowning pools
the nightmare-dreaming
masquerade of love

discrimination
absent in this game
man preys on brother, wife,
woman, her son
a continent cries out to muted globe
Ngorong’s crater
muffling the sound
- the predator waits

across the plains
the human herd in flight
stalked silently by Nature’s genocide.

I wrote this poem in 2002 - little has changed since then MM