My Writing Journey - an author's inspiration stirred by the sea

When my life was turned upside down in the 90s, I decided there were certain things I wanted to do – one was to sail on a tall ship and the other to write a book.

Living in Western Australia, my first experience of sailing was a twelve day voyage on a barquentine in the Indian Ocean. During bow watch one night, I witnessed the sea’s magic, and was hooked.

On the deck of STS Leeuwin off the Monte Bello Islands.

That experience and the feelings that accompanied it inspired me to write my first book. I titled the story: ILLUSIVE DIAMONDS after the bio-luminescent particles in the sea that had amazed me. However, the London publishing house that bought the production rights did not like the working title and asked me to change it. Hence I called the novel SEA DUST. That was 2005.

Margaret Muir/M.C.Muir 

From there, I wrote four other historical fiction stories for them, targeting a female readership and the first of the nautical fiction series featuring Captain Oliver Quintrell. But, as the publisher and I did not see eye to eye on the latter’s publication, I withdrew from the traditional route and turned to self publishing. I have never looked back.

A few years ago, I combined three of my early novels in a Box Set entitled:  YORKSHIRE GRIT and was delighted to see my stories reach best seller status on Amazon for a short time. 

Recently I have concentrated on nautical fiction, writing under the by-line M.C. Muir and targeting a male readership. 

The UNDER ADMIRALTY ORDERS SERIES has become very popular.

All my titles are available on Amazon as e-books and paperbacks.

For anyone interested, SEA DUST is FREE on Amazon for the next few days.

Pics: STS Leeuwin ll and yours truly aboard  Leeuwin off the Monte Bello Islands.

Sailing full and by - an author's voyage into the world of nautical fiction

A full head of sail - bark Europa

Surprisingly, neither the young Richard Patrick Russ nor Cecil Louis Troughton Smith served aboard naval vessels, yet they became the most prolific and well-respected exponents of nautical fiction of all times. Writing under the pen-names, O’Brian and Forester, they shared a seemingly intimate relationship with the sea that flowed freely across the pages of their classic adventures. It is, therefore, hard to imagine where the salt in their veins stemmed from.
Today, several latter-day authors have a distinct advantage in that they can proudly boast a career in the modern navy seeing active service. Other writers, having grown up living by the sea, have salt in their veins. But, there are those who live hundreds of miles from the ocean and have little chance to savour the experience first hand.

HMS Victory - Portsmouth naval dockyard

Today, the opportunity to step aboard an original fighting ship from the age-of sail is slim. HMS Victory, Nelson's ship at the Battle of Trafalgar, is still in commission but is in permanent dry-dock. Nevertheless, to walk the decks is enough to inspire the imagination of anyone who visits Portsmouth Historic Dockyard. Across the pond, USS Constitution is the oldest commissioned ship still afloat and very occasionally her canvas is loosed and she sails out from her berth in Boston harbour. But very few people have the opportunity of sailing aboard her.
So, without the advantage of a seafaring background to call on, what does the aspiring lubberly writer do to become acquainted with the changing moods of the sea?

For one author, the only answer is to sail aboard a tall ship.
“To cross the ocean beneath a press of square sails, to stand on a heeling deck in the beating rain as the sea rushes in through the scuppers; to take the helm in the blackness of night wishing and waiting for the moon to rise; to watch the masts drawing infinite circles on the star-studied heavens; to listening intently for the luff of the t’gallant when the ship heads too close to the wind; to marvel at the endless array of sunsets; to sway to the rhythm as the deck pitches and rolls, is an unforgettable experience.”

Sailing the Australian Bight

Over the last eight years, the writer, has sailed on numerous voyages on sail training ships and replica vessels. In August 2013, this aspiring nautical fiction author embarked on a 23-day voyage of 2500 miles along Australian Bight aboard the 100-year old Dutch ship, Bark Europa.

Sailing close hauled under a press of canvas, in a latitude just one degree north of the band of the Roaring Forties, the bow of the 3-masted bark sliced through the waves making a very commendable nine-and-a-half knots. Apart from the chill factor, the winter cold fronts were not unkind and the voyage was uneventful. Only two weeks later, however, as Europa headed north towards Sydney, the 303 ton ship was hit by a sudden 55-knot squall (reported as Force 10) and lost its mizzen topmast.
Muir was not on board to witness this, but remembers an Atlantic crossing a few years earlier aboard the 2,200-ton modern passenger barquentine, Star Clipper.

Europa displays a pyramid of sail

“It was the tail-end of the hurricane season and we were nearing the islands of the Caribbean when Star Clipper was hit by an unexpected tropical squall. As most of her sails were still flying when the Force 9 hit, suddenly everything went over. Crockery and glasses crashed to the floor and passengers were thrown from their beds (modern facilities). The screech of the wind and the noise of the rain dancing on the sea were horrendous, obliterating any chance of conversation.” Such an experience left the writer with an indelible memory.

The endless ocean, in all its guises, is a formidable element of nature and is regarded by some authors as the primary player within a work of nautical fiction. And it was their stories set against the ever-changing backdrop of sea that made the novels of Patrick O’Brian and C.S. Forester so evocative, timeless and appealing, and has carried their readers on the crest of each new adventure to the far side of the world.

M.C. Muir is author of the Oliver Quintrell series of nautical fiction adventures set in the age-of-sail.
This article appeared in Nov/Dec issue of ‘Quarterdeck’, 2013.

EUROPA looses mizzen topmast in squall off coast of Australia

In August, 2013, I joined the Bark EUROPA in Fremantle and sailed along the Australian Bight.
Choosing to sail in that latitude in winter was questioned by a few hardy sailors I know.
Low pressure systems and storms roll in from the west together with icy blasts coming directly from Antarctica.
Yet, despite the forecasts, the weather was perfect for the fleet of tall ships who were heading for Melbourne and later Hobart and Sydney as part of the Tall Ship’s Festivals and Races. It was cold, but there was little rain and the winds were coming from the right direction.

At times, EUROPA creamed along at 9.5 knots. It was an unforgettable and uneventful (as far as mishaps is concerned) journey.
Not so, however, the conditions which EUROPA and the other ships were confronted with when they crossed Bass Strait heading north from Hobart and neared the south east coast of Australia.

A ferocious squall blew in, bringing EUROPA’S mizzen topmast crashing down and breaking two booms on OOSTERSCHELDE.

Here is the report of the incident which appears on OOSTERSHELDE’S website.
1 October 2013 - Oosterschelde in a squall of coast of Australia.
We decided to wait for the front that was coming our way and then sail to Sydney with wind coming from the west. With a nice sun and barely any wind we lifted the anchor and sailed slowly to Gabo Island, the southeast cape of Australia. The ‘Europa’ joined us and together we passed by the cape. Slowly, because we prepared the ship by reefing all the sails. The dark sky behind us foretold the ominous change of weather.
The next thing we knew it was chaos. Out of nowhere a huge gust of wind fell over the ship. One moment we had wind from the northwest of 5 knots and the other moment it was southwest with 55 knots! Before we could say anything the preventers of the foresail and the mainsail snapped and with a big bang both sails jibed which caused both booms to splinter. The sea, even so close to shore, builds up quickly and with big waves we swing from side to side. Despite the broken boom we did not dare to take down the foresail. Luckily the sail did not tear and we all pulled together and managed to take away the main sail and secured what was left of the booms. With only the foresail we did 9 knots. The wind is now over its peak. We have a storm jib and a very small mizzen due to three reefs, the sun started shining and we are licking our wounds. No one got hurt and in the end it could have been worse, but we will have a lot of work to do in Sydney making two new booms.

Fortunately, despite the damage, all vessels made it safely into Sydney Harbour and arrived in time for the impressive sight of the arrival of 18 tall ships.

During the time in port, repairs were undertaken and two days ago the fleet left Sydney heading for New Zealand.
From there, some of the more hardy vessels, including the three Dutch Tall Ships, will set sail for the mammoth voyage to Cape Horn. After doubling the Horn they will sail to the Falkland Islands as part of their circumnavigation of the globe.
Bon voyage and a safe voyage to all the intrepid voyage crew on board.
Pics of Europa and of damaged ship from a crew member of Oosterschelde.

Tall ship ENTERPRIZE replica

FLAX, HEMP and STOCKHOLM TAR used in this replica.
The replica ENTERPRIZE, which sails regularly on Port Phillip Bay, was constructed on the lines of the original. The 1830 Hobart-built topsail schooner was a bulk cargo ship that carried coal and other goods, however, in 1835 she landed the first settlers on the Yarra River. This was the establishment of the settlement that later grew into the City of Melbourne.

Aiming for authenticity, the latter-day builders insisted on using the same materials as in the original vessel. As a result, the sails are hand-stiched from flax imported from Scotland. The standing and running rigging is of natural hemp fibre imported from Holland coated with Stockholm Tar.

All the timbers are Australian and New Zealand grown or recycled. The tiller and windlass are examples of the fine craftsmanship that went into building this replica tall ship.

This interesting replica vessel takes passengers on regular day sails on Port Phillip Bay.
I photographed her during the Tall Ships Festival in September 2013.

Safety at Sea - a priority for a tall ship

When hundreds (sometimes thousands) of miles from land on a tall ship, safety on board is essential.
Bark EUROPA is very conscious of this, so unexpected drills in man-overboard and abandon ship procedures, also how to combat a fire serve to remind everyone how vulnerable we are on the ocean.

The abandon ship procedure is one of the first lessons everyone who steps aboard must learn.
When the alarm is sounded everyone aboard must don a full immersion suit to protect themselves from the cold water. There are plenty of lifeboats on deck to accommodate everyone should the necessity to abandon the vessel arise.

In a man-overboard emergency, the victim must first be located.
Then the victim must be plucked from the sea.

Derk is seen here in his immersion suit after rescuing the man-overboard (in this case, an orange buoy).

Fire is perhaps the biggest hazard on a sailing ship and when the alarm sounds, the crew are well trained to combat the hazard.
With hoses and extinguishers and dressed in full fire-fighting gear with breathing equipment, they are armed to fight a major blaze.

The results of a fire can include injuries - burns or smoke inhalation.
In this exercise, the ship's doctor, Tammi, with assistance from Claire (voyage crew medic) resuscitates a patient suffering smoke inhalation

While any disaster is being fought, the crew must bring the ship to a halt as quickly as possible.
This is no easy task if the ship is flying along making 8 or 9 knots.
Rather than waring or tacking, which can be a slow procedure and covers quite a distance, the ship can be hove to by bracing one set of square sails around and against the wind, to act as a brake.
For a man-overboard, the engines are put into reverse and the ship brought around.
Captain Eric throws the helm over to come about.

My 23-day voyage on EUROPA was uneventful, as far as major disasters were concerned. But it was reassuring to know that everyone knew what to do should an unexpected hazard occur.
Re: Sailing Dutch Tall ship, 'Europa' on Australian Bight - August/Sept 2013

The Majesty of Sail - Bark Europa under a press of canvas in the Southern Ocean.

After 2500 miles sailing with the 100 year old Dutch Tall Ship, Bark Europa along the Australian Bight, I am home from the sea.

What a magnificent ship to sail on! She creamed the sea making nine and a half knots at times.
After visiting Sydney for the Tall Ship Races in October, she will be heading for Cape Horn.
This pic courtesy of Bark Europa. I will be posting some of my own when I come down the earth.

THE SPOT UPON THE SEA - by Margaret Muir

Beware of Novice Navigators
A nonsense poem written on a tall ship in the Indian Ocean when the trainee crew was challenged to navigate the ship to a location designated by the Captain.

There was panic on the poop deck when the word was passed around
that the motley crew was taking on the ship.
The Captain gave a shudder, there was little he could do.
His only goal was to survive the trip.

But the Junior Officers – the leaders of the Watch
didn’t wait for the disaster to unfold,
They jumped into the fizz boat that was lowered to the sea
and sped off in the darkness, it is told.

The bold Captain, in his wisdom said, “You can take this barquentine,
if you prove that you can sail her true and square.”
So he handed them a challenge to navigate the ship
to a Spot upon the ocean, was his dare.

Three novice navigators to the charthouse they did go.
Their aim to meet the challenge, ‘twas their choice.
They would chart a course for sailing to this Spot upon the sea.
“We will get you there,” they bellowed in one voice.

And the goal the Captain set them was 32 degrees of south
and a longitude – one-hundred-fourteen east.
If they followed that chart reference to the Spot upon the sea,
they would prove themselves true sailors, at the least.

“We will do it,” said the boldest. “I will guarantee you that
we will take you to this Spot upon the sea.
Thirty-two degrees south latitude is easy,” they agreed.
With one-one-four we’ll have you there for tea.”

And no sooner had he spoken, than he wrote it in the log
- one-hundred-fourteen latitude of west
And with compass and a ruler started drawing on the chart.
He really felt he had to do his best.

‘Twas a tiny little error led the barquentine off course.
To the west of the meridian they were bound
and with sixteen sails a-flying, they would seek that special Spot,
yet they didn’t know it wasn’t to be found.

The days were long and balmy and the winds were fresh and warm
and time slipped by and no one seemed to care,
The crew was quite contented playing deck games in the sun
or to lend a hand when it was time to wear.

With the tall ship’s course still charted to one-hundred-fourteen west,
they passed Good Hope and headed for Cape Horn.
And the crew, they were oblivious to what was going on
just completed cleaning stations every morn.

North west in the Pacific, was the course they had to take
to that thirty-two by one-one-four degrees,
And the navigators gleeful, started looking for that Spot,
their binoculars focused on the seas.

But that Spot upon the ocean they never did locate,
though they looked and looked and looked and looked in vain
Perhaps it floated off to Chile or it sank beneath the waves
for that Spot was never ever seen again.

And the legend of this barquentine is many times retold
how the ghostly ship still sails upon the sea
with her crew forever looking for that damned elusive Spot
and it’s told they’ll look for all Eternity.

THE SPOT UPON THE SEA is included in a short book of verse entitled: 'Words on a Crumpled Page' by Margaret Muir and available from www.LULU.com

Images courtesy of BIGSTOCK photos

THE TAINTED PRIZE - Brilliant

It was only released last week and this message came through to me today:
I am half way through your newest book "The Tainted Prize" and finding it hard to put down. Besides knowing your maritime history and tall ship sailing, I love that you don't cookie cutter the plot and your characters are so well developed and believable. In every scene you set up, I feel I am actually there through the characters eyes , thoughts, and impressions.
Brilliant!
(Lisa Goodwin - USA)
THE TAINTED PRIZE is a nautical fiction adventure set during the age-of-sail.
It is the sequel to FLOATING GOLD.

Sailing on Europa - a bucket list wish

It's been on my Bucket-list for a long time.

But now at last, Europa is sailing from its home waters around Antarctica and coming to Australia in 2013 for the Tall ships Race.

As legs of the voyages are now available, I have placed a provisional booking to sail on Europa from Perth (Western Australia) to Melbourne, and then Melbourne to Hobart. What an event to look forward to.
I hope I get a berth.

FLOATING GOLD author interviewed by Historic Naval Fiction

Astrodene's Historic Naval Fiction is pleased to have obtained an interview with Margaret Muir, author of FLOATING GOLD .

This age-of-sail adventure, published by Hale Books, London, will be released on 31 May 2010 and is already available for pre-order.

I am sure you will find some of the answers very intersting.

What can you tell us about FLOATING GOLD, without spoiling the plot for readers?

The year is 1802 and Captain Oliver Quintrell is frustrated at being land-locked. However, when he is granted a commission, he is cynical that his vessel is a mere frigate. But Elusive is a sound ship and with a seemingly loyal crew he sails from Portsmouth. On entering the tropics, he discovers the purpose of his cruise and from Rio he heads south into the inhospitable waters of the high latitudes beyond Cape Horn.
But the secret orders he has been entrusted with are veiled in mystery and the chances of success seem near impossible. Murder, treason, enemy ships, ice, and the near loss of his ship are but some of the problems to confront him. His mission is to retrieve a valuable cargo and return it to England and Captain Quintrell intends to succeed no matter what the cost.

What made you decide to write your first book in the historic naval fiction genre?

Several things. My love of the Horatio Hornblower series. Inspiration after stepping aboard HMS Victory in Portsmouth. Experiences at sea sailing aboard replica vessels such as Captain Cook's HM Brig Endeavour and the tiny Colonial Brig Lady Nelson. Several voyages on a sail training vessel and a voyage across the Atlantic in a (latter day) barquentine.

What things in particular inspired you to write this book?

Two things. Firstly a visit to the Antarctic Peninsula a few years ago – what a remarkably unforgettable place that is! And secondly reading an article about a lump of ambergris being found on a beach in South Australia.

How did you undertake your research for the book?

My research is mainly through reading, but not fiction (that came earlier). And I tend to read factual seafaring accounts such as Cordingley’s, Billy Ruffian, Taylor’s, The Caliban Shore, Bergreen’s, Over the Edge of the World, besides reference books such as Goodwin’s, Nelson’s Men o’ War and similar. I read almost anything which is related to the days of wooden sailing ships. Obviously I also use the internet and where possible view primary source material of ships’ logs, reports or personal letters.

Where did your interest in the sea originate?

I don’t know. Perhaps from a model fully rigged wooden sailing ship which always graced the sideboard when I was growing up.
Then in the late 1990s I took my first tall-ship sailing adventure – a 12 day voyage as trainee crew on a barquentine, STS Leeuwin. Sitting on deck on bow watch one night while in the Indian Ocean, I was amazed to see the marine luminescent particles sparkling in the bow wave. At the time I didn’t know what this phenomenon was. I called these flashes of light illusive diamonds (they reminded me of the illusionist’s magic dust) and Illusive Diamonds was the proposed title for my first book. I was later advised that title would never sell so I changed it to Sea Dust which is less inspiring but possibly more marketable.

What drew you to write your first novel?

As I said, my first novel, Sea Dust (2005) was a sea story – a historical fiction story with a female protagonist. Set in 1856 in Whitby, Yorkshire it tells the tale of a young woman who escapes from England by stowing away on a cargo vessel and sailing to Australia. In retrospect, I think the story epitomises my own fantasies to run away. (I did leave Yorkshire many years ago and emigrated to Australia but my passage was on a Boeing 707)

Do you plan your stories before starting to write?

No. I don’t have a pre-conceived plot. If a particular setting or a person or action grabs me, that is where I begin and I let it flow from there. Sometimes the idea I come up with might be midway through the story (as with Sea Dust onboard ship). I then have to thread a beginning to it. Sometimes the most amazing things crop up as the story progresses which surprises even me.

Are your books available?

My previous four titles are available in Large Print only as they never went into paperback after the hardback edition sold out. The Condor’s Feather (2009) – an equestrian adventure set in Patagonia – is still available from on-line bookshops in hardback. FLOATING GOLD can be ordered on-line from The Book Depository, Hale Books or any on-line bookstore.

What intrigues you about the period in which the book is set?

I love the sense of adventure, heroes, challenges, hubris, courage, loyalty, tenacity and ingenuity; of man against man, and man against the elements.

Are you planning to write further naval fiction books set in the age of sail?

I had started writing the sequel to FLOATING GOLD, before I got sidetracked on a book about Tasmanian bushrangers. To complicate matters further, this year I embarked on more university studies. However if FLOATING GOLD is well received there will certainly be a sequel. Originally I had plans for a series of sequels and possibly a prequel.

Is there anything else you would like to share with readers?

Writing is a lonely experience and authors get little feedback about their work - either good or bad. Without any follow up it’s hard to know what readers really want. I’m always happy to take on board any comments, feedback, suggestions or offers from publishers to take up the paperback rights.

My thanks to the Historic Naval Fiction Blog for this interview.

To read more about the book, go to www.squidoo.com/floatinggold

Interview with Margaret Muir - written by Astrodene

For the Term of his Natural Life – by Marcus Clarke (1846-1881)

One hundred and fifty years ago, Marcus Clarke sailed around Cape Pillar on the SE coast of Tasmania.
Last month I witnessed the same inhospitable scenery from the deck of a replica sailing ship.
Here is Clarke’s description:

The south-east coast of Van Diemen’s Land from the solitary Mewstone to the basaltic cliffs of Tasman’s Head, from Tasman’s Head to Cape Pillar, and from Cape Pillar to the rugged grandeur of Pirates’ Bay, resembles a biscuit at which rats have been nibbling…
Viewed upon the map, the fantastic fragments of island and promontory … are like the curious forms assumed by melted lead spilt into water. If the suppositions were not too extravagant, one might imagine that when the Australian continent was fused, a careless giant upset the crucible and spilt Van Diemen’s Land in the ocean.

Clarke’s novel, For the Term of his Natural Life was first published in serial form in 1870 under the title His Natural Life.
Today it is recognised as a masterpiece.
Though written as a fiction story, the book provides a detailed historical insight into the inhuman penal system at work in Van Diemen’s Land in the first half of the 19th century.

This chilling page-turner tells of Rufus Dawes, a man sentenced to transportation for life for a crime he did not commit and destined to spend the rest of his life in various prisons in Van Diemen’s Land including Port Arthur and the infamous settlement at Macquarie Harbour on the wild west coast.
Fate plays a big part in Dawes unfortunate life, from his wrongful arrest and sentence; to the sinking of the ship transporting him; to the companions he sails with; and even to his birthright.

For the Term of his Natural Life is a compelling story with a spectrum of assorted and questionable characters neatly interwoven into its pages.

It has been said that the convicts transported to the penal colony were, ‘more sinn’d against then sinning’, and for many of them, death by their own hand or that of a brother was preferable to a life of pain and suffering.

For the Term of his Natural Life is a classic historical novel, a primary piece of literary history and an indictment of the infamous British Penal Code which sent hundreds of thousands of men, women and children to suffer unbearable hardship at the hands of their evil overseers.

Quote: Chapter 13 – The topography of Van Diemen’s Land – Marcus Clarke
Pic: Cape Pillar from the deck of The Lady Nelson (read about my own voyaging on a 1789 replica ship below)
Pic: After the ravages of time and bushfires, the old penal settlement at Port Arthur is now a traquil place

1804 - Lady Nelson explores the Tamar River

Built at Deptford on The Thames in 1798, HM Colonial Brig Lady Nelson was the first ship to explore the Tamar River in Northern Tasmania.
She returned later that year with the Buffalo to establish a settlement.
In 1813 the little brig, in company with the Minstrel transported 21 men, 6 women and 16 children from Norfolk Island to the Port Dalrymple settlement.
Today, in April 2009, the replica Lady Nelson unfurls her sails on the same stretch of river.
During a once a year visit to the north of Tasmania, the wooden boat allows tourists to recapture the days of sail.
Join me on my blog (below)as a tourist and a crew member as I sail with the ship half way around the coast of Tasmania.
My blog story starts at the end of the voyage.

For more on the Tall Ships I have sailed on or visited, go to my Tall Ships' site
For more information on The Lady Nelson and the Tasmanian Sail Training Association go to: LADY NELSON

Pic: Lady Nelson sails the Tamar River - 2009

Hobart – Lady Nelson’s home port

What a feeling it was to sail up the River Derwent and into Constitution Dock.
Most of the yachts in the Hydro Tasmania Three Peaks Race had arrived before us and most of the runners had completed their final long endurance race up Mount Wellington.
I looked up at the mountain and remembered standing on the top with PJ in 2005.
It brought back happy memories.

And as Captain Alan eased the Lady Nelson against the wharf it was satisfying to know the ship had made it safely home.
Today the replica brig is run by the Sail Training Association of Tasmania and crewed by volunteers of all ages.
Sailing with her for an extended voyage was something I had never envisioned a week before we left Launceston.
I only wish I lived a little closer to Hobart so I could join the crew more often.
But I am sure I will be returning to sail back into history on the deck of the Lady Nelson.

Photos: Lady Nelson back in home port at Hobart
Hobart, the River Derwent and Storm Bay from the top of Mount Wellington

Yard where Lady Nelson replica was built

As we headed north bound for Hobart I was on the helm.
Part way up the channel we passed the small shipyard where the Lady Nelson replica was built in 1989.
Her construction was a project envisioned by a group of Tasmanians, but like the best laid plans of mice and men, for a time the ship’s future ran into troubled waters.

However after several years and much determined effort the replica ship, which holds so much significance in the history of Australia’s early settlement, was returned to serve the people of Tasmania.
It is now manned and run entirely by volunteers.

Photos: Yours truly on deck and shipyard on channel where the replica brig was built

Woodbridge on the D’Entrecasteaux Channel

After being tossed by the sea for 5 days, to wake to the glassy surface of the D'Entrecasteaux was unreal.
The wharf at Woodbridge is the place Lady Nelson moors on many of her short voyages.

All the crew were aware that Hobart and the Lady's home port were only a few hours’ sail to the north, and no one wanted the voyage to end.

Photos: Morning water at Woodbridge
The Lady Nelson at the Woodbridge wharf

Cape Pillar, Tasman Island and Storm Bay

From Cape Hauy to Cape Pillar the scenery got even better.
Ahead was the bottom corner of Tasmania with Tasman Island sitting like a full stop at the end of the line.
A channel runs between the island and the cape.
As we entered we could see a change in the sea ahead.
Half way through and we could feel the sea rising.
And as we emerged we were lifted by a near 4 meter swell with an angry sea running above it and dashing itself against the formidable cliffs.

The Lady Nelson pitched and heeled and waves broke over the bow, washing the deck and pouring from the scuppers.
Everyone was harnessed and clipped on.

This is sailing at its best!
The long swell reminded me of the Atlantic rollers and I loved every minute of it.
Ahead was Cape Raoul.
To the north the entrance to Port Arthur but there was no time to pay a visit.
The Lady Nelson rode the waves bravely as she rounded the dragon-like headland of Cape Raoul.

Ahead was open water and a four hour sail across Storm Bay.
The Lady heeled over with every passing swell.
From there we headed south down the D’Entrecasteaux Channel to take advantage of the shelter of Bruny Island for the final night.

Photos: The Cape Pillar, the boiling sea of Malingon Bay and Cape Paoul

In the Wake of the Adventurers – sailing round Van Diemens Land

Another night on board as we sailed past the Isle de Phoques and the historic Maria Island accompanied by a school (?) of dolphins.
Next morning, I was once again woken to the sound of the anchor chain being fed out and came on deck to find the Lady Nelson in Fortescue Bay.
This part of Tasmania’s coast if almost inaccessible and few people get to see it.
The scenery is awesome and unchanged since the early explorers saw it!
How lucky we are! Only smaller boats and sailing vessels can get a close view of the jagged dolerite cliffs of the south east coast of Tasmania.
How lucky we were.
After breakfast we sailed past The Candlestick (a Holy Grail for rock climbers) and rounded Cape Hauy.

The sky was blue.
The sea was relatively smooth and we were not alone.
Juvenile albatross skimmed the water and dolphins frolicked in the bow waves.
There were schools of fish churning up the sea's surface and seals serpentined through the blue water.


What more can you wish for?

Photos: The Candlestick and Cape Hauy
Dolphins

Three Peaks Race competitors in a close race at Freycinet

There was a gap between first second and third boats home then six of the 13 competing craft were seen entering Coles Bay.
What a sight it was as they rounded the headland - spinnakers flying.
But it was late and the runners would have the unenviable job of running over the Hazards in the dark and heading up Mr Freycinet - the second peak.

But the Lady Nelson could linger no longer and at 9 pm we weighed anchor and headed south.
Unfortunately the wind had died and it was back on motor.

Photos: Three Peaks entrants sail into Tasmania's Coles Bay